NYFW: Marc Jacobs

Tuesday, 12 February 2008
View As Web Page The tide has certainly turned at Marc Jacobs. Last season, the eponymous designer was reprimanded for keeping his audiences waiting for over two hours and starting the show in reverse order, starting with Jacobs taking a bow and followed by the models en masse. With a theme of underwear as outerwear - bra straps showing here and there, unfinished hems - it was a difficult theme to grapple.

This season however, the show started precisely on time and from the first look it was evident serenity and understated glamour are back in fashion. Playing to a live soundtrack by Sonic Youth, the first model to appear on the catwalk wore a vertical folded pouch-collared coat, with a new volume appearing at the back. It was nothing if not seriously luxe.

Colours were soft pastels, greige, and shapes relaxed, with an air of refined classic masculine tailoring. The coats, a highlight of the show, will be on every fashionista's must-have list for next autumn. As will be the shoes, all of which had a lower heel. Dresses, like the coats, came with pronounced volumes at the back. For evening, their stiff folds were replaced by gold or silver lamé pantsuits and bias-cut velvet gowns.

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