The nautical theme was also prevalent at Dior, where naval stripes and patterned navy tailoring were key items. A classic palette of blue, white and red, chunky Breton stripes and leather rain macs reinforced the theme. Having discovered a letter written Christian himself in the 1950s, designer Kris van Assche took the quote: "Traditions have to be maintained… In troubled times like ours we must maintain these traditions, which are our luxury and the flower of our civilization"
Refinement and luxury were key at Hermes' SS15 presentation, which included a long short, blouson jacket and printed shirts. This collection was all about resort dressing, so the palette was kept light and cool with warm beige, dove grey, navy and black dominating, with flashes of fuchsia, mustard, sunset orange and teal.
It was more rock & roll and less grunge at Lanvin this season. Designer Lucas Ossendrijver focused on slim tailoring with skinny trousers worn with leather or cotton shirts and elongated blazers. The rolled up sleeves at a louche touch, as did neoprene outerwear.
Where or not the Saint Laurent customer will be wearing ponchos or rockabilly jackets next season will remain to be seen, but there was plenty of Hedi Slimane's rock & roll edge to make this collection commercial at retail. Californian vintage-feeling pieces and a slimmed-down silhouette dominated, with folk embellishment, metal frogging and silk brocade injecting a touch of high-end opulence.
Images: SS15 Paris menswear