Paris Men's Fashion Week Day 1

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Paris men's fashion week opened on Wednesday with a stellar lineup on its first day, including Carven, Valentino, Christophe Lemaire and Raf Simons.

Carven left behind the floral prints from this spring and opted for sporty outerwear worn with trousers with ribbed hems, like joggers. Block paneled sweaters and double breasted mackintosh jackets were some of the key pieces. There was a utility focus, like zip up shirting and tracksuit jackets that made the sportswear seem modern and relevant.

Lightweight minimalist looks of relaxed jackets and zip-up shirts opened the show at Christophe Lemaire, with covetable field jackets worn with rolled up sleeves. Most looks were monochrome, in white, black or navy, focusing on unstructured tailoring with relaxed, though not oversized, silhouettes. Key items included two, four and eight-button double-breasted blazers, layered over baseball shirts and worn with relaxed trousers.

There was piping on outerwear at Valentino, as first spotted at Prada's SS15 show, but the resemblance stopped there. Valentino's spring collection was about bohemian luxe, with pajama like tailoring and prints that came in blue, green brown and red tones. Staples in the collection include a navy harrington jacket and classic trench coats. Nightwear shirting gave the collection a loungewear feel, though at its most luxurious.

Instagram was already rife with postings of Raf Simons' SS15 platform sneakers, shortly after his show that closed the first day of Paris men's fashion week. These were worn with tailored jackets with images and logo appliqued, like a white two-button evening coat with an exaggerated shoulder, or an elongated blazer with a four-button horizontal closure. On the back of most of the coats and jackets were images of of his personal history, "like mood boards you'd pin your favorite images to," Simons said backstage. There was no seating arrangement at this show as buyers and press had to stand, without hierarchy, to experience the clothes.

Images: SS15 Paris

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