Paris Fashion Week round-up

Monday, 03 March 2014
CÉLINE Phoebe Philo took menswear, or rather women wearing men's clothing, as inspiration for her AW14 collection. Showing 42 looks, the collection was rife with coats, but the silhouette was long and slim, with just a few cocooning or flaring at the end. Coat dresses, knitted trousers and wrapped skirts made for a look that said less-is-more, focusing on fabric and craftsmanship, rather than glamour or sexiness. The platform sandals are sure to be a big hit on the high street next season.

GIVENCHY Riccardo Tisci knows how to do sophistication, luxury and sexy, French style. Beautiful butterfly-print dresses mixed with sharp tailoring and this collection was all about the details. Exaggerated panels on trouser pockets added a utiliy element to the long, lean look worn with short boxy jackets. Fabrics came in organza, fur-trimmed leather, and luxe animal prints.

CHLOÉ Clare Waight Keller kept to Chloé's sporty luxe aesthetic, favouring a nude colour palette with pale pinks, beige, winter white and lialc. Gold came in the form of trims. A purple leather anorak was one of several interesting outerwear pieces. The Chloe whimsical print came in geometrics, leopard print and monochrome stripes. Key pieces include oversized sweatshirts and culottes, as well as a crepe blouse worn with leather trousers. Feminine yet sporty, as was the feel of this collection.

VIKTOR & ROLF It was 50 shades of grey in the opening looks of Viktor & Rolf's AW14 collection. It was a deconstructed take on preppy clothes, with clever juxtapositions of neoprene sweatshirts, cotton shirts and boxy blazers pieced with fabric on top or trompe l'œil prints of knitted twinsets. There were injections of monochrome cobalt blue and coral to give it depth. Organza panels and embellishments added for interesting detailing.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Dame Vivienne is the Grand Dame of fashion, but this collection was all about the queen of the jungle. Inspired by the House of Worth exhibition at London's Victoria & Albert museum, Westwood showed multi-facet tailoring that was both relaxed and utilitarian. Birds of paradise and bold pink stripes added a luxe dishevelled touch, a familiary look at the house of Westwood. Exaggerated shoulder lines and textured layering made the collection both fun and inspiring.

HAIDER ACKERMANN Haider Ackermann is another designer who's playful masculine versus feminine is a common interplay in his work. With just three colours of grey, black and taupe, the focus was on subtraction of unnecessary elements. One of which was colour. Ankle-skimming coats elangated the silhouette, worn slouchy over the shouder with a wide-cut trouser and deep v-neck top. Herringbone, houndstooth and cashmere knits made for a luxe wool story. A luxurious skinny tuxedo was an interesting look for evening.

Images: Haider Ackermann, Céline, Viktor & Rolf, Givenchy

Related News