Paris Fashion Week final

Thursday, 02 October 2014

It was all eyes on Louis Vuitton once more, as Nicolas Ghesquière showed his second collection for the French fashion house. The show, which took place in Paris' Bois de Boulogne in the new Fondation Louis Vuitton structure designed by Frank Gehry, had a strong 70s vibe, with denim, separates and leather as the main focus. But however simplistic the styling was: a navy blazer worn over a pair of jeans, or a knitted sweater dress worn with boots, these were clothes that were executed in the most luxurious fashion. "No rupture with last season," Ghesquière said afterward. "It's still a wardrobe, it's about an instinctive mix." But undeniably it's a special wardrobe.

Hedi Slimane seems unable to break away from his Hollywood starlet and the spring summer 15 Saint Laurent girl continues to favour the rock and roll look from his previous shows. Granted the new season saw more colour and print, but the thigh-skimming dresses, shifts and tailored blazers seem to be Saint Laurent wardrobe staples. Notable styles included cropped leather jackets which came in a plethora of varieties cut from leather, snake, and patched suede. Trippy florals and Hollywood Boulevard Stars were the stand-out prints, as well as the opening look of an off-the-shoulder cherry print asymmetric dress.

Valentino's design duo Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from a grand tour of Italy during the 18th century. Pinafore dresses were narrowly cut leaving sides exposed, but it was the craftsmanship that could easily be associated with couture - like their lace insets and Broderie Anglaise - end make there collections both covetable and enduring. Ethereal chiffon gowns were elegantly draped, printed and embroidered with the utmost attention to detail. A starfish print dress made for whimsical underwater references, something also seen at Rodarte in New York.

The models at Alexander McQueen wore high gloss masks, created by makeup artist Pat McGrath and her team. The notions of freedom and constraint seemed to be playing on the mind of Sarah Burton, echoed by the two large white orchid sculptures created by artist and sculptor Marc Quinn that adorned the runway. The clothes themselves were striking too, with intricate Japanese prints on severe python skin suits and leather strapped harnesses that formed the top of voluminous chiffon skirts. Tightly belted and tightly harnessed kimono shapes made for the ultimate lady warrior.

Images: PFW SS15

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