Showcasing its collation at the Louve, Raf Simons for Dior showed an ovoid and slim silhouettes in a collection that referenced both the 18th century as it did the modern age. There were light cotton broderie anglaise dresses, smocks and cropped knitted jackets with a techno-sport application. There were plenty of florals, but the frock coat was a key style, with the emphasis on its cut that appeared in many of the silhouettes with edged splits to the satin gilets in vibrant color.
Maison Martin Margiela is a brand widely associated with deconstructed fashion and for its spring summer 2015 collection, there was a sense of underlayering as worn as an outer shield. Sheer nudes were in stark contrast to heavier weight fabrics used such as denim, damask, and suiting. Some 70’s influences shone through with hand painted daisy patterns and silk scarf handkerchief tops. Wrap styling was a key detail with skirts, dresses, and jackets.
Junya Watanabe showed space-age astronauts during Paris Fashion Week, with shiny geometric plates and 3D patent and PVC fabrics. The clothes are first glance were futuristic, as the models stomped out on patent platform brogues. But they were not exactly unwearable, like a shiny red patent coat teamed with black cigarette pants. That would look modern, and not too other-worldly.
Viktor & Rolf boarded the sportswear train this season, with ballet vests, cycling shorts, leggings and even mesh in the collection. But it was juxtaposed with complicated tunics and dresses, some with floral prints and complex draping. Sportswear has been everywhere for some time, so to be introducing it now, a novel departure for this duo, seems a little late.