Paris Fashion Week Day 2 & 3

Monday, 30 June 2014
It was a new model army at Rick Owens' SS15 catwalk show on the second day of Paris men's fashion week. Showing an elongated and relaxed silhouette, Owens didn't stray from his muted neutrals of black, beige, although there was an injection of soft pastels. Models dusted in white paint wore fluid shorts layered underneath lightweight basketball inspired jerseys and double-breasted coats. There was an emphasis on texture and structure, whilst straps sewn onto outerwear added a utility aspect.

Military uniforms desconstructed was the look at Louis Vuitton. Amongst the elevated uniform basics, outerwear came in suede trenchcoats and bomber jackets, while relaxed tailoring had an aviator feel. There was something seventies about the collection, with zigzag details on shirts and jerseys. What stood out was the luxury of the fabrics and that this is a collection of premium ready-to-wear for the global traveler.

Dries van Noten was inspired by ballet dancers, and showed a mix of loungewear and soft tailoring matched with items such as low-cut tank tops, open silk shirts and long fluid robe-like coats.  There was a romantic feel to the collection, which counterbalanced the masculine with the feminine.

Junya Watanabe Man was all about denim, or indigo to be precise. Japanese workwear and denim-look fabrics in a plethora of indigo shades saw patchwork details on items such as 3SB blazers, trucker and mac jackets, cardigans, vests and collarless shirts. The silhouette was relaxed and easy, and key items included anoraks, patchwork blazers and ankle cropped trousers.

Kris van Assche took a directional turn for SS15, favourings strong youthful looks, with printed denim a major theme. Elsewhere shirts came spliced with gingham checks or pinstriped cottons and were worn with ties tucked into small slits on the centre of each shirt. A series of blousons, Harringtons, parkas and spliced-print campshirts made up the topweights, keeping the look informal with great wearability factor.

White denim, shiny nylon and aertex were featured on the Givenchy catwalk. Modern sportswear came as strict monochrome tailoring, preppy schoolboy silhouettes and athletic-inspired pieces. Shorts suits and monochromatic paint splashed jerseys were key items.

Images: PFW SS15

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