Milan Fashion Week kicks off

Friday, 19 September 2014

Prada for Spring/Summer 2015 sent a succession of patchwork floral dresses with raw frayed edges down the runway, paired with granny nylon socks (both nude and floral printed) and the chunkiest platform Mary Janes. There was the topstitching, as seen as the men's show in June, but other clothes looked as if there were just held together by their seams, leather, or fraying at the edges. "I wanted to revive the beauty of incredible fabrics," said Miuccia Prada, then added beauty was "an impossibility." There was plenty of brocade and diamond detailing on necklines, which stood in stark contrast to darker and plainer styles. Model Gemma Ward returned to the catwalk after an absence of six years, and Lara Stone closed the show.

Moschino's collection last season with McDonald's and Chanel inspired accessories and ready-to-wear was called "brainless" by some critics. Creative Director Jeremy Scott didn't take this to heart and this season sent clothes inspired by the world's most fashionable bimbo, Barbie, down the runway. The first look said it all, with the model wearing a huge platinum blond wig, shrunken fuchsia leather jacket and miniskirt, and mules. All in pink. Other pink outfits followed, including one on rollerblades and Daphne Groeneveld as Work Out Barbie carrying dumbbells.There were other looks too, there was Prom Barbie, Tropical Barbie, Spa Barbie and Beach Barbie. Key pieces include a polka dot bikini tromp l'oeil and oversized peace chain belts.

At Fendi the orchid motif carried over from last season and was worked into prints, hair accessories, and leather jackets that bore the flower in intricate cut work. Cut was the operative word, as leather that faded into a patent finish was spliced with slits, and organza was cut up into feather shapes for a final passage of birds of paradise, in pastel dresses to accompany the exotic orchids. With Cara Delevingne walking exclusively for Fendi in Milan there was a sense that this collection is trying to woo the bright young things with a wallet to match. Fendi's fur still managed to make a spring summer appearance, patchworked and arranged into strips, overlaid with plastic, clashing the natural with the synthetic.

Images: Prada, Moschino, Fendi SS15

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