Milan Fashion Week - Day 2

Friday, 21 February 2014
FENDI On Thursday Karl Lagerfeld showed a sumptuous collection celebrating the craftsmanship of Made in Italy, focusing on fur, the Fendi trademark fabric. And the fur was literally everywhere, on hoods, on trims, as stoles or wraps even popping out of seams. But rather than being stuffy and old-fashioned, Lagerfeld has taken the House into the 21st century by mixing a luxurious touch of sportswear in stark contrast to the plush fur. Nylons and mesh were seen under boleros and jackets making for a very luxe sportswear look. Leather, ribbed wool and alpaca added texture. Model Cara Delevigne carried a miniature doll of Lagerfeld down the runway. Executed, of course, in fur.

PRADA Inspired by Germany's cultural avant-garde, the set at the Fondazione Prada was a stark and grey alternative performance space, infused with an orchestra and live singer reminiscent of the Weimar era. The first look was a long sleeve paneled dress in silk, following by a single-breasted mannish cut coat with metallic piping. Then came a plethora of rich art deco print dresses, mostly in silk and Miuccia Prada's penchant for mixing high and low, like shearlings over shifts. Notable  were the chevron necklines and accessories in the form of chain mail bags and wedge heels, to weave the story all together.

MOSCHINO There is always a sense of humour in any Moschino collection, but with Jeremy Scott as its new creative director, there was no question this show was going to veer away from anything ordinary. The opening look is best decribed as a cartoon version of Chanel, a bright and brash two piece wool jacket and skirt, but in fire-engine red and canary yellow. Even the clip-on earrings and two-tone shoes were mimicked. Chanel iconography was a theme throughout the collection, as was candy-shop chic, like dresses in chocolate wrappers or crisp prints. Perhaps these were a little too sweet.

PORTS 1961 Monochrome colour blocking was at the heart of this collection, which came as utility-infused ready-to-wear from Ports 1961 designer Fiona Cibani. Most looks were either all black or all white, but where there was lack of print or rainbow waves, there were details, like a black jacquard dress in crocodile and silver or fur-trimmed peacoats worn over a layered organza dress. Even the military-inspired shirts with belted trousers was a look that felt modern and relevant.

Images: Fendi, Prada, Moschino, Ports 1961 AW14

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