PRADA Inspired by Germany's cultural avant-garde, the set at the Fondazione Prada was a stark and grey alternative performance space, infused with an orchestra and live singer reminiscent of the Weimar era. The first look was a long sleeve paneled dress in silk, following by a single-breasted mannish cut coat with metallic piping. Then came a plethora of rich art deco print dresses, mostly in silk and Miuccia Prada's penchant for mixing high and low, like shearlings over shifts. Notable were the chevron necklines and accessories in the form of chain mail bags and wedge heels, to weave the story all together.
MOSCHINO There is always a sense of humour in any Moschino collection, but with Jeremy Scott as its new creative director, there was no question this show was going to veer away from anything ordinary. The opening look is best decribed as a cartoon version of Chanel, a bright and brash two piece wool jacket and skirt, but in fire-engine red and canary yellow. Even the clip-on earrings and two-tone shoes were mimicked. Chanel iconography was a theme throughout the collection, as was candy-shop chic, like dresses in chocolate wrappers or crisp prints. Perhaps these were a little too sweet.
PORTS 1961 Monochrome colour blocking was at the heart of this collection, which came as utility-infused ready-to-wear from Ports 1961 designer Fiona Cibani. Most looks were either all black or all white, but where there was lack of print or rainbow waves, there were details, like a black jacquard dress in crocodile and silver or fur-trimmed peacoats worn over a layered organza dress. Even the military-inspired shirts with belted trousers was a look that felt modern and relevant.
Images: Fendi, Prada, Moschino, Ports 1961 AW14