London Fashion Week Day 4

Tuesday, 16 September 2014
In one of the strongest shows of London Fashion Week, designer Roksanda Ilincic showed beautiful sculptural arcs that came in the form of peplums and loosely draped silhouettes, inspired by the Brooklyn-based artist Julia Dault's plexiglas sculptures. The bright and rich sorbet colours lent an architectural form, also enhanced by the geometric platform shoes, which came courtesy of of a collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood.

There was an Amazonian lushness to Erdem's blooming SS15 collection, and the designer found inspiration in botanical artist Marianne North. Beautiful texture and embroideries lent themselves to quilted dresses with a Victorian propriety. It was the long and lustrous gowns a the end that made this show so spectacular.

There wasn't a trench in sight until the 19th exit, when Burberry showed a printed mac, and in fact there were only a handful to see in all of the the 50 looks. That is because for SS15 Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey reimagined the denim jacket, which came in many guises, including one lined in white ostrich feathers, cropped versions, a green suede jacket with plastic collar and of course the authentic indigo version. The sneaker, already seen paired with tailoring at the men's shows, was worn under skirts and dresses and came in modern retro design with a bright striped foamy sole

Chrisopher Kane dedicated his collection to the late Louise Wilson of Saint Martins. He wrote in his show notes: "There were dresses that I was making then, things that were not shown, that featured coils, cords and ropes. I decided to revisit them, that simple cord idea sparking other thoughts. There are 'controlled explosion' dresses, with explosions of tulle intrinsic to their structure, like they are about to take off. There are other explosions, where dresses are deconstructed and seeming to fall apart, their boning exposed – these have been developed and grown from really old drawings from that time. We have started to revisit ourselves in our collections; this is something that has changed. Here, we are looking back to our time with Louise, but also looking forward. Finding those pictures from the MA, this collection was meant to happen.”

Peter Pilotto, best known for its complex prints, turned to embroidery this season. Their signature bright prints came outlined in black or where overlaid with shadowy, leaf embroideries. Mini hems, pinafore-style cuts, paisley motifs and boot cut trousers lent gave a seventies vibe to the collection. Despite the glossy dresses and wispy hems, the sleeveless biker jackets and chunky sandals by Nicolas Kirkwood ensured no look was too girly.

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