London Collections: Men SS15 Day 1

Monday, 16 June 2014

Astrid Anderson, Chrisopher Raeburn and DKNY Men were just three of the key shows on the opening day of London Collections: Men.

A packed schedule saw 21 catwalk shows and presentations in addition to the exhibitors at the Hospital Club.

One of the first highlights of the day was Astrid Andersen's streetwear show which featured bold colours and sportswear as daywear, including sumo kimonos, velvet tracksuits and basketball jerseys.

Chrisopher Raeburn showed a strong utility vibe in this spring summer 2015 collection, which had an aviatic theme. Outerwear was a key feature with the first exit showing a leather bomber and others followed in fabrics with perforated mesh and parachutes repurposed as macs. The looks were accessorised with utility backpacks, which featured contoured trussing.

Topman Design showed a collection that was part psychedlic, part geek chic. Printed t-shirts worn over graphic shirts brought back an era of high school fashion. Contrasted with flares, high buttoned jackets and lightweight shirting, there were several moods that Topman's creative director Gordon Richardson was tapping into.

DKNY Men is now showing in London, bringing its signature Manhattan looks to UK urbanites. Whatever the reason to show at LC:M, the DKNY dna of sportswear was everpresent in off-duty tailoring, sweatshirts and streetwear. Tone on tone neoprene logo sweatshirts reminded everyone this was still very much an American brand, but with enough fashion kudos to appeal to consumers across the pond.

Lee Roach opted for lightweight and deconstructed tailoring of the military kind. No showy prints here, bar the occasional graphic lettering, like the words 'protect' on a beige vest. Using a minimal colour palette, Roach manipulates the uniformity of dressing by focusing on a detail, colour, fabric and so to a sartorial challenge, with bonded sleeves on shirts and a sophisticated kimono style trench.

Images: SS15 London Collections

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