Marc Jacobs sets tone at New York Fashion Week

Tuesday, 11 September 2012
It is safe to say that usually the major trends each season emerge out of Paris, Milan or London, but this season Marc Jacobs' New York show has raised the bar for other cities. Whilst the designer is always one of the most important shows during NYFW, after last season's show, which was an extravaganza where Jacobs sent giant hats and Anna Piaggi-inspired looks down the runway, his spring 2013 collection is quite the opposite.

Stripped of superfluous accessories and unnecessary embellishment, the collection had an integrity and simplicity that feels both refreshing and needed. With the American elections underway, there is no room for hiding under layers and layers of clothing perhaps.

With a sixties inspired mood, Jacobs presented stripes as the key to next seasons look. Seen in vertical panels, sequined and parallel lines, they came in black and red in pantsuits, t-shirts, dresses and skirt suits. A hint of a graphic stripe and beige also made it down the runway.

The pared-down collection, which saw garments described in the accompanying shownotes simply as "T-Shirt" or "dress" or "bra" focused on more straightforward fabrics and shapes, where a simple cotton top or bra was pared with a skirt worn on the waist or simple skirt suit. It was the evening pieces that showed greater fabric diversity, with sequins, patent leather or leopard.

The opening exit of model Ruby Jean made for a striking resemblance to Andy Warhol's Edie Sedgwick. Wearing just a stripey t-shirt over shorts, it set the tone for one of the best shows to date.

Images: Marc Jacobs SS13

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