London Collection​s: Men catwalk round-up

Thursday, 09 January 2014
Sometimes it seems in London anything goes, and finding the common thread amongst a sea of individual shows, is not easy. Despite this, there were definite trends that emerged from the London Collections: Men Autumn Winter 2014.


Sportswear and tailoring key themes

Sportswear and deconstructed tailoring where amongst the trends, and so too next season will be big on print. Strong shows from Alexander McQueen, Burberry and Jonathan Saunders, proved British menswear has firmly taken its place in the international fashion sphere.

At Jonathan Saunders, interesting colour blocking, fabric juxtapositioning and strong knitwear made for a sharp and slick collection. Many editors were seen out and about in Saunders' AW13 multi-stripe coat, giving testament to his growing and popular menswear business.

Christopher Raeburn looked to the arctic for inspiration, with polar bear motifs seen on knitwear, accessories and outerwear. Raeburn's parkas and quilted hooded jackets made for a strong impact and will sell well at retail.

Lou Dalton opened men's fashion week with a city rustic collection inspired by farm workers. This translated into cropped trousers, worn with suede military style shirts and jackets. Elsewhere camouflage and bleached denim made a comeback. This was also seen at Jean Machine, whose pared-down denim came in bleached washes and a sumptuous raw version.

Topman is always a show to look forward to and this season the look was rugged and northern. The duffle coat was a key item, as were double-breasted jackets, that came either boxy and short or in classic crombie style. Colours were dark and weathery, like stormy blacks, which later became softer blues. Almost as if the clouds cleared to make way for a little sunshine.

Dark and moody was also a theme at Lee Roach, who enveloped sharp tailoring for next season. With just three colours, black, white and olive, the presentation was concise and focused, if sombre. Key looks were slim cut trousers with belted blazers or round neck closed jackets, highlighted by matt versus shine contrasts.

The sportswear theme was embraced by James Long, with futurist prints seen on bomber jackets and technical outerwear sweaters. Details included quilting and mesh overlays, with a strong focus on short zip up jackets in abstract geometric prints.

Images: Christopher Raeburn, James Long, Lee Roach