MFW: Young talent takes central stage in Milan

Tuesday, 25 February 2014
altBusiness, but also emotion. The Milan fashion week had the merit of giving back hope to young talents. Rahul Mishra’s tears, literally burst into tears of joy in front of the jury of the Woolmark Prize as soon as he had knew about winning the podium  was the most exciting script of the week. In short, young people need to be leaders, exactly in accordance to the good intentions of the new CEO of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, Jane Reeve. "Starting from next week the young will present fashion shows in the middle of the week and not on the last day," said the CEO, so buyers and press will not lose their collections. According to this new strategy, during the opening press conference of the Milan Fashion Week, Davide Grillo, Martina Cella, Daniele Vigiani and Marco Rambaldi, the four designers of the "Next Generation", were officially presented to the press and companies.


Andalt to young people also thought the Zegna fashion house, at the beginning of fashion week, announced the allocation of one million euro per year, for 25 years, to allow Italian graduates to achieve a master's degree or a doctorate abroad, but with the obligation to return to Italy after finishing their studies. "It's a scholarship against the brain drain. I is a project of 25 years for € 25 million Euros that will go to 200/300 students, with the must to return to Italy," said the CEO of the group, Gildo Zegna.

A Super  (Pitti Immagine) new names were more than 40 percent of the total New names and emerging talents were also the protagonists of Super, the Pitti Immagine fair and Fiera Milano, where there were presented 230 of accessories and ready-to-wear collections. "Since the first edition our scouting was an intense one and at a high level of internationality," said Agostino Poletto, vice-general manager and the project manager of Pitti Immagine. From the figures, the new names were more than 40 percent of the total, while 30 percent of the brands came from abroad.

On the catwalk (64 fashion shows total including 7 doubles and a group with 6 brands), along with the clean lines and pale colors of Jil Sander and pastel shades of Alessandra Facchinetti for Tod's, we saw a lot of color. It did not pass unnoticed the irreverence of the designer Jeremy Scott, new designer at Moschino, which accepted the most famous fast food M on sweatshirts and bags with his capsule collection "Fast Fashion-Next Day After The Runway." So much color and a riot of floral designs for Furla brand that produces 76 percent of the sales abroad. Bicolor shoes and sprinkled with glitter powder for boots and shoes "Magenta" with Fratelli Rossetti mannish.

In 2013 there was strengthened the impact of foreign sales on total turnover which increased by 58 percent

The beautiful color games on the smooth velvet by Emilio Pucci and the shades of sand and the beige-pink by Bottega Veneta, fashion house, which closed in 2013 reaching a billion in revenue, with the pride of the CEO and president Marco Bizzarri. To remain in the field of accounts, the financial statements of women's fashion in 2013-14, gives hope even if with respecti to domestic consumption the crisis remains alarming.

According to the data of Italian fashion Sistem, in 2013 the sector turnover has diverged slightly compared to the previous year. To the growth on the foreign front, there is a further worsening of the Italian market, which would lead to close 2013 with a slight decline, estimated at 0.9 percent. The turnover of the sector would increase therefore below the 12.2 billion Euros. In 2013, however, the impact of foreign sales on total turnover, which increased by 58 percent, has strengthened. Exports of Italian women's fashion has seen a positive trend, recording an acceleration compared to 2012: on an annual basis, the foreign sales should indeed store a growth of +3.5 percent, globally leading to exceeding 7 billion Euros share. In contrast, the import is still characterized by a negative variation, indicating a decline estimated at 3.7 percent.

From our editor in Milan, Isabella Naef

Photo's: Moschino, Botega Veneta and Fratelli Rossetti

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